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Casa SaltShaker
Buenos Aires, Argentina Bacanal Magazine - July 2006
English Translation Gourmet Spy The Mysterious Saltshaker It’s already been said. Buenos Aires is a boxful of surprises. An American chef and sommelier opens his house, and offers dishes that honor historical dates from the almanac. Every night in this city of never ending discoveries is like living in a new place. It’s Friday night. The rain erases the tracks of the spy. Two taxis stop at the same doorway, at the same hour, on a street that leads to the Recoleta cemetery. From each car an elegant couple descends, with wrapped wines held in their arms. At a casual glance from any neighbor, they give the impression that they are headed to a party, perhaps the same one. But a glance from the spy is much sharper, and readily more astute. The couples are going to a private dinner, arranged previously by telephone reservation. The spy, shrewd, also made a reservation with advance premeditation. Curiosity is his instigation for this situation. He wants to know exactly what the deal is at Casa SaltShaker, where Dan Perlman, a North American born in Georgia [a mistaken impression, I was born in Wisconsin], very cultivated, is offering weekly dinners based on key dates from the calendar, celebrating gourmet events. From the webpage, it is possible to take a tour of Dan’s complete thoughts, catch a glimpse of upcoming menus - always connected with singular moments from the more or less recent past. Dan explains his choices, using the justification of history to prepare four course dinners for up to a dozen diners. The night of the spy, Casa SaltShaker was celebrating the sixtieth anniversary of the provincial vote in Italy to end the monarchy and democratize the republic. Paraded to the two communal tables were a very good risotto with shelled mussels, fettucini with pesto, spicy pork with black beans, and an exotic tiramisu ice cream sandwich (50 pesos without wine, 70 pesos with options for a matched glass with each course). The subject of wine comes with three varied options: bring your own, without any charge; a wine list, or matched glasses per menu course, taking the advantage of suggestions by the host, a professional sommelier. A Tocai and a refreshing rosé from Rodas, and the 2005 Bonarda from Sur de los Andes, were his on target Mediterranean style selections. Because the dinner is a social party, at the table nothing passes unnoticed. That strange rainy night, congregated in the house of the saltshaker were three winery owners and a well know food writer, a local distributor of wines, a foreign importer of wines, and the gourmet spy. There were no saltshakers on either of the two tables at Casa SaltShaker. The labels of the wines were more than seductive enough. The fact of having communal tables had the effect (I think that this is a foreign custom, almost the only that we haven’t imitated) of getting us to socialize with other diners, something unknown and unusual for us, thanks to our eternal native insecurity. Dan promises to recommence his planned dinners when he returns from New York [already back, up and running before this article hit the stands], from where he came a year ago, and gives some clues for the nights in July. Friday the 7th, San Fermin will give a reason to use Spanish ingredients; the 14th is inspired by the capture of the Bastille, the 21st he leaves as a mystery, using surprise products found in the market [changed to a vegetarian dinner], and the 29th, a Saturday, will close the month with a Peruvian dinner, celebrating the independence of the country of waltzes and pisco, with one of the most flavorful gastronomies on the continent. Will his friend, Henry Tapia, from Trujillo, and his co-host, show off his culinary skills? As has been said here, "book this." Casa SaltShaker: reservations 15-6132-4146 [or via e-mail, dan@saltshaker.net]
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